Thursday, June 11, 2009

Stop Flipping Your Flipping Head!

Laura's Morgan and Head Tossing in general.

The Morgan show world is infinitely different than the Quarter Horse world.
I used to barn-share with a top notch Morgan trainer and it was a lot like Daffy Duck trying to talk to Fog Horn Leghorn when we tried to talk horse. A lot of spitting and bellowing went on, but we really didn’t have a clue what the other was talking about.

What made things work was a mutual love of horses, a sense of humor and an open mind.
I had an opportunity to ride some of their horses, saw them fitted to show and have a vague idea of how things go.

The halter horses were shown with a lot of fire and high-legged action. I’m not sure how your mare was shown, but from what I saw of the Morgan world, halter didn’t prepare a horse to carry a rider any more than it does a halter quarter horse.

I firmly believe a horse is just a horse up until we split them off into our desired disciplines, so I think my basic approach should work just fine with this mare. The goal is to get her to engage her back and hind legs while she's packing a rider. That way she can pick up her lope when you want her too.

That great big floaty trot she does is not setting her up to transition into a lope.

I'm also a big believer in letting the horse figure as much of this out on her own as possible.

I would work this mare through her WTC on the longe line. I would not use side reins under any circumstances until she can easily take her leads in both directions on the longe and with me on her back.

Side reins will dump her on her front end, block her shoulder movement and make it difficult to transition at all, much less pick up her leads.

If she is stuck in the trot I would get her upward transitions clear on the longe line and then start riding her.

I would focus on getting my WTC before I began serpentines or circles. If you want to ride her while she’s learning to balance herself with a rider (because this is what it’s all about at this point), I would work on the rail in my arena and transition up and down from walk to trot to extend trot to walk, etc. I would use my corners to create some bend and very elemental steps towards collection.

If I bring her down from a working trot to a jog about ten strides before the corner, stay balanced in the middle of my horse, hold my hands quiet and steady and drive her lightly into my hands with my outside leg while steadying her with my inside leg at the cinch she will frame up on her own for a step or two.

Her reward will come from the release of my hands and legs on the straightaway.

I would encourage forward movement with every ride until we were loping nicely.

Then and only then would I think of adding artificial training aids (anything other than hands, legs, maybe voice). I have to add here, I’m not a believer in using side reins, martingales or draw reins to create a frame. I believe this teaches my horse to drop her head in false collection, break at the neck instead of the poll and learn to lean on my hands.
Then we have to teach them to drive the hind legs into the dumped over front end and try to lighten them off our hands. It seems like working backwards to me. I much prefer to teach a horse to drive with the hind legs into my hands, it creates a lighter, softer horse with less to undo. If I use training aids at all it is to show my horse where to be, after she understands how to drive from the rear and then I take the aids off. I rarely use an artificial training aid for more than 10 minutes at a time.

So, that's what I would do. I think this is a great question to run by Johnny Rotten. Much more of the show Arab training crosses paths with the Morgan than AQHA. If he hasn't trained Arabs for halter I'm sure he understands this type of halter stuff better than I, since he showed around it, so he might have some good insight.

I also received a few questions about head tossing. I'm good at fixing this one.

First I want to get into where this nasty, distracting habit comes from. It comes from being picked at by the rider.

A horse initially tosses his head to get away from the pressure of whatever equipment you happen to be hanging off his face. I'm going to say a bit because I'm a bit person, but ANY piece of equipment, even the wonder don't-hurt-my-baby, bitless, pressureless, made-from-the-threads-of-magic-spider-web bridle will cause a horse to toss his head if he's being picked at.

Nervous hands who hold too tight cause the first toss. The rider (rightly) thinks, "I'm holding the reins too tight," and releases the horse.

Said horse has a light bulb go off.

"Aha!" He thinks.

"When I toss my head my rider lets me go."

And so it begins.

The horse begins to effectively teach his rider to let him go by shaking his head every time he wants a release. If he doesn't get it he shakes harder.

By now the horse is usually being held very tightly and often wearing a tie-down or he is being ridden with no contact at all.

When he is sent down the road (and trust me, he will be) he will be described as "very light mouthed and sensitive" or "spirited, only for an advanced-intermediate rider".

The horse himself feels very anxious. His head tossing becomes a vice. His shoulders begin to lock up and he gets heavy in the front.

Am I close here?

What has happened is the horse is giving the cues and the rider is responding to them. The horse worries because he gets no direction and the rider worries about nose bleeds. We have to reverse the process, and get the horse responding to our cues.

So here's what I do. I make darn sure I mean it when I have contact. I may mean frame up, I might mean turn, I might mean stop. But I mean it. I use the amount of pressure I would like the horse to react to and back it up with my legs.

I don't uses a martingale, a drop-nose band, a draw reins, nothing.

If my horse starts shaking his head I maintain the same contact (not more) through all the shaking until I get what I want. Then I release. I send a horse forward into my hands when he shakes his head.

I want my horse to begin equating head shaking with a bunch of forward lateral work, not getting a release.

I remember to loosen my reins after the horse accepts my contact.

I don't fidget or play with my reins. Every movement I make means something to my horse, it's best if I don't leave it up to my horse to decide what that is.

I focus strongly on loosening the shoulders. I will go back to riding two-handed. I will take hold of my horse and ask for a turn, using the reins, my hands and legs. I want the inside front foot and shoulder to break loose and follow my horse's nose (which is following my hand), before I release him.

I ignore all head shaking, the release comes with accomplishing the task.

I'll do lots of leg-yields and eventually half passes at a walk and trot.

I like these kinds of exercises because they require light contact with the mouth and intelligent use of the seat and legs.

It's good for the horse and rider both.

I give big releases every time I get somewhere.

I make darn sure I spend a lot of time standing around resting on a loose rein. As in no contact with the mouth.

If my horse starts shaking his head while resting he gets to go back to work, with contact and forward, until he quits shaking his head.

When I ask for a back, I ask for it one rein at a time, and push with one leg at a time, trading contact with each rein with each step.

Have you ever played around with moving your horse just one foot at a time, forward and back? I've done it with Ray Hunt and I'm pretty sure John Lyons does it too. I'll dig around and find the specifics because this is a great exercise for teaching a horse to accept pressure and teach a rider how her reins and legs actually work.

I have turned many a head tosser into a Steady Eddy this way, but once the behavior is there it can come back at any time. I try to always respond to a head toss with energetic forward, moving them left and right with my bit and hands, to loosen the front end, and hanging in there until the head shaking stops. Then I loosen my reins!

I hope this helps


  1. This post is so unbelievably perfect for me and Mocha right now! Thanks so much Mugs!

  2. Great usual. I find myself releasing too soon many times and really have to concentrate on that piece.

  3. gtyyup - Me too. I think it comes from all the energetic "throwing away" we are taught to do.

  4. I agree also, feel, release and sensitivity.... BUT what has been my experience with agitated head tossing and trying to get Rider Pickyhands to understand is that the release will cure the problem, its what horse wants.
    Trouble is Rider Pickyhands is lazy and its easier to tie that horses head down with a martingale, drawrein or tiedown and try and prevent Headtosser from doing it.
    The same is to be said for moving one foot at a time, front back, front back, or one step right, left, right, left.....

    Sensitive horse learns how pleasant it is to have a rider that commuicates precisely and clearly. Sensitive Horse becomes ULTRA sensitive.... Rider Pickyhands is now challenged with being perfectly consistant, light and precise.... its HARD.

    An unaware press here and pull there has Sensitive Horse stepping right and twisting he gets in trouble because he appears to be disobeying Rider.... Poor Horse is trying very hard to follow the mixed up cues.

    Rider Pickyhands decided maybe subconsciously that it easier to just kick to go, pull to stop and if Horse is balky, just step up the pressure.

    Sorry Sensitive Horse....we tried.

    Mugs how successful have you been getting Rider Pickyhands to develop feel of release?

  5. Mugs, such a helpful post, as always.
    We've got a new family horse that will be used primarily by our 8yo son. The new horse really drops his shoulders into turns. I think you've prolly already posted about getting a horse to bend and follow his nose. Could you point me to the relevant post?
    Thanks mucho! I really appreciate all your good words.

  6. Cowgirl Rae - I've been luckyI guess, but I've had quite a bit of success teaching folks how to use their hands.
    I'm not sarcastic. I'm mindful of the things that cause someone to pick,like nerves, habits or lack of trust in their horses and then we work on those specific points.
    Good hands usually follow.

  7. Look to the right of the blog. Go to "Labels". Scroll down to "follow your nose." These exercises work at a walk and trot too. I'm not sure an 8-year-old can do this though.

  8. I've never had a head shaker of my own (I guess I must be doing something right) but I deal with and answer questions on them almost every day. It's probably one of the most common and undermined sterotypies a horse can have under saddle.

  9. Very interesting. I wonder if its the same rational for some instances of rein pulling. This one horse likes to pull on the reins if you take up even the slightest contact. He puts his head down and pulls. He is stronger than his rider so he will succeed in getting some extra length in the reins one way or the other. Once he has lowered his head past the original lower limit, he pops his head back up. That gets him at the very least a temporary release. How long depends on whether he pulled the reins through your hands or pulled your body forward. If you try to brace against him (I know, bad idea) he will happily lean on your hands forever.
    Its gotten better, in part using methods similar to these.
    That poor little booger; I'm on vacation so I have a backlog of exercises (read: experiments) I want to try.

  10. gillian-
    I rode for a dude string for a while and as one of the more competent guides, I often got stuck schooling some dude horses who had started to develop bad habits. We had one big Appy gelding that had become a very bad rein puller. What worked for him, was to jerk on ONE rein **HARD** one time whenever he started to pull. Big ole butt-head went from making my hands bleed the first day to nicely behaving himself the next. He was just being stuborn and trying to get away with stuff.

    He would still try it occassionally with the dudes when being ridden. If it was a fairly competent adult (who wasn't on his face to begin with), I'd tell them to give him one good jerk. Others we would like get pulled around until they would just throw their reins out long. When a kid would ride him, we would hook a side rein (set LONG) up on one side of his bit and back to the breastcollar D on the saddle since he pulled one poor little kid right up onto his neck doing that trick once. He would normally try it once with me when I would ride him again and then quit when reprimanded.

    **Disclaimer that I'm not a trainer, nor do I play one on TV. And I haven't slept at a Holiday Inn Express in awhile either... ** =)

  11. Uhmm, guys, I just want to say that I'm not endorsing Johnny Rotten's blog or opinions. What I actually wrote to mugwump was, "Check out his blog. He's not dumb, even if I do have a hard time saying that about anybody who specializes in Arabian showhorses." OK, my predjudices are showing. Not that Arabs are bad, mind you. I thought JR's blog was amusing. I have no idea if I would agree or disagree with him on horse training questions.

  12. Mugwump

    Like your blog too!

    Actually I am a QH cutting horse trainer. Showed arabs in my past.

    You have some excellent topics here and I enjoy reading your posts!

  13. Thanks for the post! Love it! I just have to say from an arab riding girl...I only use the martingale from getting a black eye! After a couple of rides in a standing martingale, she learned that throwing her head wasnt as fun, and it saved my face!

  14. Mugs,
    Thanks for the directions to the "follow your nose" post. I'd looked down that list a dozen times and somehow never seen it. Silly me.
    I'll be working with the horse on this, not the 8yo boy. I'm doing the tune up, not the kidlet.
    Mil gracias!

  15. Johnny Rotten - AHA! QH, cutting and arabs, I say we have a brain to pick.....I'm trying to learn to cut. Never enough cattle or time, but I'm always looking for a cutting brain to poke at. You can't laugh at me for going down the fence though.

  16. Mugwump

    I am always willing to talk horses and exchange training techniques with another trainer. Just let me know!

    Firday nights are the Rotten Neighborhood Blog parties. Feel free to stop by!

  17. Two things, A question, and then something about head tossing.

    Mugs, you said:"If I bring her down from a working trot to a jog about ten strides before the corner, stay balanced in the middle of my horse, hold my hands quiet and steady and drive her lightly into my hands with my outside leg while steadying her with my inside leg at the cinch she will frame up on her own for a step or two."

    How do you "drive" with your outside leg. do you use a steady pressure? Or a bump bump? I have been taught both ways, and I was wonder how you do it.

    Now, head tossing. I just wanted to addm that sometimes it can be a meadical condition. I can't think of what it is called, but I know of 3 horses that have it. 2 of them are owned by the same guy, and are father/son, so it seems to be hereditary. The other, the girl rides with one of those hats that covers the horses ears? and it solved the problem, so it may have been flies.

    Just my 2 cents.


  18. My mare is a Prima Donna Diva.

    She is super-sensitive to bugs...especially ones that fly around her ears. She even used to get welts on her sides from bites.

    What happens with her is that her forelock will tickle her ears and get her shaking. So I now braid her forelock...and even have to catch those wispy ends in a band because those will drive her nuts. This is only in the summer.

    However, she would still shake her head without bugs - particularly when I was working her hard. My mistake at first was to stop, reach forward and rub her ears and check for bugs - which she loves. Get where I am going with this?

    The last few times I rode her, I told her no, made her go more forward when she shook her head, and she stopped. She then got pissy and rattled her bit...which I then jiggled back at her, told her no, and made her do more work.

    Guess what learned behavior has been stopping...both hers and mine!

  19. So what do you do with a rein puller? Merlin is in the walk/trot/whoa phase of training right now, and will pull on the bit just about every time. My last horse was pretty hard mouthed (he came that way), and I've tried to be careful about "hanging" on Merlin. He will walk, trot, stop, and turn of my seat,legs, and voice, and I really don't NEED the reins. However, even if we are ont he buckle he's stretching down until he feels the bit and then pulling. He'll try to do it even if he's in his stall wearing the bridle with nothing attached (I thought maybe he just needed time to get used to carrying the bit).

    So far, I've been ignoring it. Is there some other method for fixing this. I guess I could boot him into a faster work every time he does it and see how that works.

    His teeth have been checked, and his lower wolf teeth have been pulled, the upper ones havn't come in enough to get a hold of yet. He was wearing a myler comfort snaffle and I thougth maybe he just didn't like the bit, so I traded it in on a full cheek snaffle (the kind with two joints...he's got a little mouth).

  20. Hey there,

    I just had a fantastic ride on my 4 year old thanks to your advice from my earlier question from a previous post. He did great.

    Thanks guys!

  21. Jess - Good 2 cents... and then there's teeth. Caps can wreak havoc.
    How do I drive...this is bad, when I'm thinking,I bump, but I instinctively push with a solid leg that increases pressure. The bump is probably best. I think when they get more broke they will respond to my leg being solid.
    ~C - I am really insistant about one rein at a time for almost everything. It breaks resistance. You probably kept that dude horse employed and kept him from the sales. Good for you.
    Juli - I think kicking him forward for it as the perfect solution. It will eliminate any pulling on your part.
    He's young, he may be stretching out to find his balance. I move them forward and just keep feeding them rein. We cowhorse folk love a young horse who will lope around with his nose in the dirt. It feels like the horse has no head, but eventually they always come up.
    If he's trying to start a pulling contest I think your solution will resolve it.
    Jess - Too cool.

  22. This comment has been removed by the author.

  23. Mugs,

    I have been a long time reader of your blog, but this is my first comment. I would just like to say that I love your blog and so many things you say have really hit home with me - particularly a point you made one day about taking bit and pieces from many people's training methods and fitting them together to suit your own individual needs. So many times I've been to lessons or clinics and felt that I needed to subscribe 100% to that particular trainers methods in order to progress and see any success, but now I'm going to try different things and see what works best for me and my girl. I also loved your blog on broke vs trained. I bought my 11yo QH mare in Dec last year, she has been heavily shown throughout her life and is a perfect teacher for me - I've pony clubbed and done english riding for the last 10 years but am only just getting into western. She's amazing in the arena with a rider who knows what she's doing and still not too bad when I poke around on her. However, once out of the arena, she can be a bit of a scaredy cat and a bit anxious. Our first trail ride was a bit of a nightmare..."OOOOnooo a sheep!! OOooooooooonoo a kangaroo!" type stuff, but the more we ride the better she gets. I'm currently working on doing lots of ground work with her, asserting leadership etc which I'm hoping will give her more confidence on trails, if she can trust that I'm on control and will keep the scaries away. Anywho, I'll drop a comment from time to time, I'd love to get your input from time to time, on stuff Blondie and I are working on.

  24. What about a head "shaker". My husband's mare shakes her head incessently!! The kind of shake like she has a bug in her ear. I've check her ears...nothing in there. It starts the second I put on the halter, which isn't tight, though it is a rope halter. I've had her adjusted by a chiropractor, but she still does it. Worst at a walk and when she's fresh. Bear in mind this is a 16 hand Music Mount bred mare. She's soft and willing, but won't stand for being bullied. I tend to ignore the head shaking. Am I doing the right thing?

    Oh - one more question...this mare will also tend to roll over her nose at a canter. In other words, even on a loose rein, she will bring her nose down and toward her chest to where she looks like she's going to do a somersault. At a walk and trot, she has a lovely, just below level headset and carries her face vertically.

  25. I can not for the life of me remember my blogger id, so I will just post anonymously. I've read your blog for awhile now, and I love it, and I have a training question to throw out for anyone to answer. I have a 6 year old who I am trying to teach to do a flying lead change.

    I need exercises, as many ways to teach as possible. She is very smart, and wiling, and I feel like she really understands what I'm asking, but she just for some reason can not change in the back. She gets the change over a low fence.

    I'm just at a bit of a loss, I don't know if I'm confusing her, because even though I feel very confident that she understands the concept of what I want she still just can't get the change


  26. Maddy - can you make the jump lower or just use a ground rail? then try going past the very end of the pole and asking for the change. I also found that making sure that I emphasised the seat/weight aids helps.

  27. Thanks, Mugs. The mare is a head tosser as I said, so I really appreciate this post. Didn't do much this weekend, but clean house and watch all of Lonesome Dove twice. It is really hot down here. I'm moving north where it doesn't get (or at least stay) so darn hot!

  28. One thing I feel you missed... shanked "snaffles" aka "tom thumb" bits.

    Best way to get a horse to toss their head is to use one of those bits, it puts pressure all over the place and is very confusing to a horse.

    I'm not a pro trainer, but I've delt with maybe half a dozen or so myself, every one of them was in that bit. Got a great deal on a "dangerous" head tosser that was rode in a tom thumb, tie down AND running martingale because he was so "dangerous". I took him home, put him in a plain saddle, and resold him for three times what I paid like 2 months later.

  29. I meant "plain snaffle" not plain saddle.

    Just because I'm sitting up and have my eyes open does not mean I'm awake. :P

  30. Great post. I completely agree that martingales, etc. do not solve the problem.

    My latest project has a bad habit of head tossing. After ruling out all issues (back, teeth, bit), it became clear that he tossed his head out of disobedience - basically, whenever he was tired and had decided that the day's work was done. Typical pony work ethic! Obviously he had learned this somewhere, that if he threw enough of a hissyfit, the rider would back down.

    At first I tried basically your approach, where the release of the reins is a reward. However, when he decided the ride was over and it was hissyfit time, if I tried to press him on, he was becoming dangerous.

    What has worked for me with this particular horse was to simply ride on contact for the entire session. I remember reading a dressage article (Steffen Peters, maybe?) where he reminded the reader that every moment you are riding, you are teaching the horse, and even if you are walking to give the horse a break, it does not mean he can drag his feet and stare off into space.

    So for even for warmup/cooldown walking, I'd keep a light contact on a longer rein. If he tried a hissyfit, I didn't fight or press him on harder, just keep the same contact and ignoreed him.

    Eventually he stopped expecting to have breaks with a completely slack rein, and accepted that riding time means constant contact.

    Even though he doesn't head toss anymore and behaves for me, I worry what will happen when I eventually sell him... I wonder if the behaviour will come back under a new rider.

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  38. WvZ e bpWH YdH e bsAF OaD w vqWX [url=]プラダ アウトレット[/url] TgE noET z imAP ZeW gvRE s qvMZ [url=]MCM 財布[/url] JbV k lbWJ TjC r qoIE [url=]mcm 財布[/url] ReG p blOD IiD f lfLJ [url=]mcm[/url] UxU wyUX n xjXD NvI gwQL p vxJZ [url=]mcmバック[/url] ZrG i aiCA ZfE l kgGW [url=]mcm[/url] FjK w nsVZ RxP s isCH [url=]グッチ バッグ[/url] BpU e jcEQ IuE p qjKU [url=]シャネル バッグ[/url] IsT v myRW WjE m tfRF [url=]グッチ[/url]

  39. IlS hwWL x saZE NtM uhXS x laGL [url=]chloe バッグ[/url MeF y rjAQ QyQ h doRC [url=]chloe バッグ[/url] GlW vaSL z vdYE JhO vkTX z izBQ [url=]セリーヌ アウトレット[/url] JhB m cnOO VbX h ycKX [url=]セリーヌ アウトレット[/url] RiX x rwUJ PrH a exZN [url=]セリーヌ 財布[/url] XhX ipYK b qqZE EiM tsJW g lvJD [url=]セリーヌ[/url] XhY lyQC j ndWO WhP kmCH u gdNX [url=]セリーヌ カバ[/url] BwK kaIY z pyWE QaK lzMF e ldMN [url=]chloe 財布[/url]

  40. MyY rfIR n axED PyM noMH d saQT [url=]クロエ バッグ[/url YnY r gvTB LcF k tvAQ [url=]chloe バッグ[/url] TpV qlTR q bgYQ VyR jxBF e vuHJ [url=]セリーヌ ラゲージ[/url] OlM f jzKA BqP c rfMG [url=]セリーヌ ラゲージ[/url] UvM z wxIT WnS k usPQ [url=]セリーヌ アウトレット[/url] DbZ hiZH c rnUS SdL qfIU h seSH [url=]セリーヌ ラゲージ[/url] UiP mxBO a gtOV WjV axQF e rjZE [url=]セリーヌ ナノ[/url] UrK awRT m jcQD IcB beTL e qdBI [url=]chloe バッグ[/url]