Gotta Get That Lead Change

This is the first time I've tried to be this specific with how I teach a maneuver. I had a request on how to get a lead change out of a pleasure horse without a lot of forward.
I can only tell you how I do things, and then let you try it. There are so many factors involved with a horse I've never seen, I can't make any assumptions.
Some of this might seem like "Well Duh!" kind of stuff, but that's what most training really is.
Lead Change
You have to realize I am fairly anal when it comes to detail. If my horse is prepared properly for a maneuver then it usually is no big thing for her.
If it is too hard for her, or she don't understand it, then I have failed in my step building
process somewhere along the way.
If a conformation flaw is stopping her, I should find it as I am teaching her the preparatory steps.
I always use two hands to teach any maneuver.
I use the terms inside and outside, because I have to think too hard to remember left and right.
Inside leg means the leg inside the maneuver. Yours or Fluffy's.
Before I ever contemplate a lead change, I know Fluffy can:
Lope continuously for ten to fifteen minutes.
Take both leads in a circle, or on a straight away.
Lope depart comfortably from a walk.
I also want to have complete control of Fluffy's body. She has to:
Ride evenly between my reins and legs.
Turn on the forehand both ways without flipping her head around. Bad Fluffy!
Leg yield ten to fifteen steps at a time, at the walk, both ways.
Side pass ten to fifteen steps each way.
Quick review: I know most of you already know this, but if somebody doesn't here it is, also, my interpretation of a maneuver may or may not be the same as yours...
Turn on the Forehand
Fluffy will set her inside front foot as a pivot as she rotates her hindquarters around
that foot. Her head is aligned with her shoulders and body.
Leg Yield
Fluffy's head and shoulders will maintain a straight line as I push her outside hind foot towards her inside front. I'll contain her front end with my hands, and push her outside leg towards her inside front with my outside seat bone, and my outside leg, just in front of my back cinch. If I use the arena rail her head and shoulders will be at about forty five degrees from the rail.
Her hindquarters will power the maneuver.
I'm going to be careful to keep control of Fluffy's neck and shoulder.

Now that I have all that stuff, I will get in my big arena. If you don't have one, a long stretch of straight, fairly level trail, or road, works just fine.

1.I start Fluffy at one side of the arena. I will look ahead, not at Fluffy!
I walk a straight line down the long side. About 20 steps in I leg yield four or five steps,towards the center of the arena.
When Fluffy gives it to me, I release, and continue on my straight line. I repeat this the length of the arena.
When I get to the end, I stop, and rest my horse for a minute or so. Then I gather her up, turn on the forehand, using the same seat bone and cue leg, and head up the arena again.
Any time Fluffy gets stuck, I'll turn on the forehand using the same cue leg, then start again.
When we get good that way, I'll go the other.
I will do this drill at a trot, and eventually a lope, but as a limbering exercise. The walk footfall pattern emulates the lope closer than the trot, so I save the trot for later.

2.I will set up figure eights at a walk. When I go through the middle of my circle I will leg yield over to the next circle.
Example: Walk a circle to the left. My weight will be balanced in my outside hip (right) pocket. I will lightly hold Fluffy's nose tipped to the inside of my circle. As I approach my middle I will straighten Fluffy between my reins. I will shift my weight to my inside hip (left) pocket. I will leg yield to the right four or five steps, tip Fluffy's nose to the right, then continue on in the right circle.
Reverse.
Do this lots.

3. I will lope many, many large circles. I will push Fluffy's hip to the inside of my circle often, until she does it easily.

4. I will lope squares and rectangles. On my long side I will push Fluffy's hip into the lead using my seat bones and my calf. This will help you gain control of her hip.

5. When I have all of that done, and Fluffy will comply happily and smoothly, I'll do it a while longer.

6. I will begin a large circle to the left, I will circle around a few times, every time I go through the middle I will pick up my reins, straighten Fluffy up, and NOT change. I will keep my seat bone and outside calf firmly positioned on the right. I will tip Fluffy's nose back to the inside.

7. When everything feels good, I will lope yet another circle. This time I will straighten Fluffy up through the middle, shift my seat bones, then my calf, to the left, or the outside of the new circle.
My lead almost always changes to the right, and off we go. I shift her nose to the inside of the new circle after the hind legs change. I quietly bring Fluffy down to a walk, tell her she's perfect, get down, and put her up.
The next day we change the other way.
I rarely change both ways the first day.

VOILA!

This can take a day, a week, or months, depending on where you and you're horse are. I never hurry. If Fluffy drags a lead I don't worry or fuss at her. I do go back and review the turn on the forehand and the hip to the inside of my circle drill.
Remember, a lead change begins with the hind legs, not the fore. If you change the hind the front will always follow.
Hold Fluffy straight between your reins in the front, and focus on her hind legs. Look straight ahead, don't look to the next circle until you feel the change.
If you don't have an arena, teach Fluffy to change on a trail, in a field, or on a deserted dirt road with good footing.
You don't have to be in a circle, it's about legs, not direction.
Good Luck! Have Fun! Be nice to Fluffy!