Wednesday, January 25, 2012

The Bearable Lightness of Being III

horsegenes said: I am still out to lunch on whether this type of lightness is what I felt on Mikey. I don't have any connection with Mikey and he has been through several owners because frankly he can be kind of a butt head. He is not a super "honest" horse. I do believe that the connection is part of it. He understood my body language and what I wanted for sure. I think the other part of it is the horse's ability to move "lightly". His way of going, the length of his stride and how he uses his body. The difference between a football player and a ballerina. While a football player can be agile and athletic and perform ballet moves, he is never going to have look or feel of someone with a different body type.

Her point is valid. She was riding a horse she didn't have years or months of time on. She didn't know the horse's in and outs, the horse certainly didn't know hers.

This is where the next phase of lightness comes from. Training. Lightness comes from training our horses to respond to our cues immediately, softly and completely.

I was riding with a young trainer, Devon Warren, before I met K. The first time I went out to his place I went with a friend who took lessons with him. I just planned on watching, but he wasn't going to have that happen, so he put me on one of his horses.

I had much the experience horsegenes had. The horse was amazing and so lightening fast in his responses I couldn't begin to keep up with him. He was also a sad, angry, neurotic mess.

I left that day knowing two things. I wanted to be able to ride well enough to teach my horses to be like his. I didn't want to end up making them as miserable as the one I was on.

I would say that was the turning point for me and horse training. It began a passion, (maybe an obsession) that is still with me today.

The next big jolt came after I had been riding with K for about a year. He had me ride a mare he had taken to the top 10 in AQHA Open Cowhorse at the Worlds (his first big win) and had coached his wife to ride and win the AQHA Amateur Cowhorse Worlds on the same horse, the same year.

The thing that blew me away was how straight and upright she was. When I sent her down a line she went like an arrow, in spite of me, not because of me. She knew to hold herself up, stay dead straight and hold her line through run downs, circles, stops and spins. It was astounding.

I wanted that feeling in my horses, that assurance of what to do and how to do it, no matter who was on them, including me.

"They have to know their job," K said. "If you go into the show pen and turn into a gunzel, the horse has to know its job so well it can cover for you."

I cover the road I meandered down to find these truths in my stories. So I won't drag you through each step. It has come down to a few very basic truths and the simplicity is almost ridiculous, but that's where the complexity falls in too. Because let's face it, as humans we can't ever be happy if things are too simple. We have to muddy them up.


1. Make sure your cues are accurate and honest..

Example: Keeping forward movement

Before you can ask your horse to move forward with lively movement and stay there you have to actually want it to happen.

This is an area I fail in repeatedly. While my horses do eventually weed through my unclear signals and start moving forward freely it takes me way too long to get the message across. Why? Because I'm chicken. Buck, buck, BAWK!

I first noticed it in my students and then, regrettably, in myself. If I ask for a horse to move freely with my body, but I'm actually thinking, please don't go, please don't go, then they don't go.

This is often the case with a student trying to lope and with me going down the fence or opening up across a field.

I might physically tell my horse, GIDDYUP, but my stiffness, rein grabbing, stomach clenching body language is saying, JUST KIDDING! MAYBE NEXT TIME.

This creates a horse that doubts your cues, which leads to all kinds of messy misinterpretations.

If you aren't ready to lope, then work on free forward movement at a trot.

Don't cover your nerves by bossing your horse around. Tie downs, heavier bits, tons of lateral work or stopping and backing don't create forward. They stop it.

The biggest culprit? Cuing a horse to go forward with your legs while simultaneously clutching the reins. This is the single biggest block I see in achieving lightness.


2. Understand each maneuver 100% before you try it on your horse.

   Example: Lope depart.

   In order to train for a lope depart, you and your horse have to understand and be able to achieve easily -both leads, free, forward movement, trot with even, steady cadence, leg yield at the trot, and having your horse wait to translate your cue change instead of getting upset or anticipating you.

  If you don't understand how to get these things it's your job to learn them, understand them, and then teach them to your horse.

3. Make sure your horse understands each maneuver 100% before you expect success

 Example: Run down

In cowhorse and reining one of our big fancy moves is the rundown, which ends in a long, beautiful slide stop.

The biggest mistake I see made is when horse and rider only think of the stop and not what it takes to get there.

The horse needs to know how to take the line she's put on and stay there. If you have to hold her straight through the entire maneuver then you will ball things up, trust me.

When I first start a young horse we work on going straight every bit as much as circles and lateral movement.

When she can hold the line she's put on (at a walk) then we start working on distance. When she will go the length of a field, or the arena then we move up to a trot.

When she can hold a straight line at the trot for as long as needed on a loose rein, without my legs holding her in place, then we move up to the lope.

I don't worry about building speed or heaven forbid, connecting the stop to the end of the line until I know 100% she can hold a straight line.

Then she is ready to learn to transition speed up and down on that line and I don't have to worry about her fading to the right or left.

When she understands the two concepts together I'll add the stop, which I've been working on separately.

4. Understand release as a reward.

    Example: opening or closing a gate

   We're going to get into the cookie giving, horse hugging argument here again, I can just feel it.
My biggest problem with giving a horse a cookie, a pat or a clicker as a reward for correct behavior is it stops all action (see #2) and takes the horse's mind off the job at hand.

Giving a release as a reward needs to become as natural to the rider as a squeeze to create action.
A release can be given in the middle of a rundown at 25 mph and your horse will feel it, get it and prepare for the next step in your plans, if she has been conditioned from day one to understand the release as a reward.

A release is the cessation of hold. The reins relax, the legs relax, the assistance you have been giving your horse to accomplish a maneuver ends, because the horse has done what you asked.

If the horse immediately quits the action you're rewarding then you guys have still have some work to do.

So, onto our gate.

Step one. Stand by the gate. Nothing else.
Position your horse, release your cues and expect the horse to relax. Right there. Not moving one foot.
This first step can take a while.
Position, release.
Step two. Get contact with your horse. Put hand on the gate. Release.
Step three. Contact. Unlatch gate. Release.
Step four.Contact.  Ask horse to side pass away and open gate. Release pressure for a split second but don't let go of contact.
Step  five. Move haunches around gate while your hand stays on said gate (I'll let the gate swing with babies, they wobble at first). Release pressure only.
Step six. Side pass to close gate. Release all cues.
Step seven. Get contact. Close gate. Release.
Step eight. (very important!) Stand and relax, horse completely released until she stands.
If the horse gets antsy repeat step one.

See what I mean? By making the release an understood reward you get the horse to break down the maneuver, understand the concept and take small steps.

5. Build your base

Example: Turn to the left or right

Lightness doesn't come right away with each maneuver. When we first start teaching our horses something it can feel a lot like towing a cinder block through a mud hole.

If I want to turn my horse to the left, I will set up my cue as clearly and simply as possible. For me, that means picking up my left rein and later a cue with a neck rein.

If you have a different plan, that's fine, just make sure the horse understands each aspect before you put it in place.

I simply pick up my directing rein, make enough contact to slightly turn the nose and wait.

Eventually the little slug will turn and go. I follow the first sign of forward movement to the left with a squeeze from both legs, then release my cues.

This is my base.

Every time I feel an improvement in response, that becomes my next expectation. So the base builds and lightness increases.

6. Be consistent with all cues.

example: Simple leg cues

This is much harder than it sounds. This means your body must repeat the cue the same every time.
Another reason to keep things simple.

My horses all know, without fail, that both legs on means go, one leg off means turn to the open leg, both legs off means stop and back until I rest my legs on them again.

Until these things are forever and ever embedded in their brains I don't add the subtleties of lift, lateral work or drive.

My leg cues are clear and concise, every time. Again, as time goes on we begin to read each other and add depth and nuance to my leg cues.

This can only happen if my horse truly understands what is going on with each cue.

Lightness comes from communication. If we learn to communicate clearly then the stress begins to fall away from both me and my horse and the lightness increases. You and yours too.


  
   



23 comments:

KB said...

Excellent post. #1 explains exactly why my son's mare wasn't cantering for me, although she was just lovely for him. She was injured as a two-year-old, and I have been so afraid to over-stress her that I have been holding her back. Even though I understand, intellectually, that she is fine now, I give that canter cue, while every part of me other than the official cue is saying. "Don't do it!". Strangely enough, we conquered this problem yesterday. The change was about 90% me, and 10% the horse realizing I really did mean that we could get on with it.

I'm loving the increased posts! Keep it up, please.

horsegenes said...

Boy did the run down part hit home with me. I have switched my entire way of working stops recently I work on the run down and like magic the stop happens. That up in the bridle, straightness, and speed control are the things I really concentrate on. Not the actual stop.

Thanks mugs for keeping this conversation going. It makes me hopeful and encouraged that I am on the right track. I am off my horses for four weeks due to some surgery so gots lots of time to think, plan and unfortunately shop.

SweetPea said...

I want to say that you can reward with release AND with cookies/pats/hugs. I do it all the time. Flash and I will be working on a specific thing and I'll be giving releases all through the lesson letting him know when he gets it right. After 15 minutes or so I'll bring him to a stop and let him stand and relax and then give him pats and hugs (sometimes a cookie).

I don't think it has to be one or the other...

Kate said...

Really clear, really straightforward - just lovely.

mugwump said...

Thank you Kate! one of the hardest things for me is to keep the message clear.

Cristy said...

Wow.
What a helpful post.
As a novice adult rider I find that there are many things taken for granted that I will "just know" that I don't. Your description of gate-training and leg cues helped me a ton just now. And like KB says - I'm certain that I'm sending mixed messages. I'll try to SAY "go" and honestly THINK "go".

Now here's a dumb question.. relating to "legs on = go".. do your legs STAY on when you're expecting to STAY "go"? I've been bumping and then staying off, hoping (yeah - mostly hoping) that he'll hold the speed I've put him into. Maybe my legs should stay more on until I want something different?
Thanks for an awesome blog - I learn every time I'm here.
Cristy

Peanut said...

I've been told to think what I want and then cue, but so far I have trouble remembering to think first. It's also easy to forget to break things into a small steps instead of just heading for the end result.

Mugs you're so much more open than many trainers about what you're actually doing - thank you!

In the sequence of things, it seems like you would sometimes want to release on a try that's in the general direction of what you want. I watched a trainer on a video trying to teach a young horse to back up while doing groundwork. At one point, the colt shifted his weight back, but did not move his feet. The trainer did not release until he actually moved his feet, but it took a while. In my (inexperienced) opinion, if the trainer had released on the weight shift the first time, and then started again and asked for the feet, the horse would have understood much faster.

mugwump said...

Christy - my legs rest on my horses sides, as soon as they are going forward I relax again.

mugwump said...

Peanut - I woldn't say this was a right or wrong situation, just a different training approach. Good thoughts on your part though.

Some give a release at the slightest try.

Some set up a problem and let the horse find the answer, which usually involves moving the feet.

I want a horse to move his feet before I'll release him, but that's just me.

While learning and developing my feel I released at the slightest try.It's where I reccomend anybody teaching themselves "feel' to go.

Judi said...

Interesting post. I'm coming from (and staying with) dogs (cheaper than horses and easier to housebreak), but I find your training posts very thought-provoking. I'm training my first stockdog now, and so much of that training is based on pressure and release that your posts can be indirectly helpful. Because I think conformation (aka halter, lol) judges need to see a real working dog, I also show in conformation sometimes. We have a problem with her pulling on the leash during some parts of the gaiting, and I'm trying to figure out how to use pressure/release to help her understand I want a loose lead at MY choice of speed.

Kel said...

Judi: Do dogs move away from pressure? Usually in horse language, the horse that makes another move its feet is the more dominant. In my limited observation of dogs, it seems like they have a great stare-down until somebody gives, but there's no specific, purposeful driving another out of one's space.

Halter lightness in a horse can be achieved by teaching how to give to pressure -- I step into your space and you move away. I remove the float in the lead and you give your head to recreate the float, either by quickening your pace or yielding another part of your body (like the haunches). Keeping them guessing as to what you're going to do next helps too. They're (horses anyway, dogs probably too) more likely to stick with you if you're randomly giving them changes in direction, speed, stops, starts, loop backs, and other similar stuff that makes them think "what is this crazy monkey up to?"

Mugs' post: The biggest culprit? Cuing a horse to go forward with your legs while simultaneously clutching the reins. This is the single biggest block I see in achieving lightness.

And it's so hard to get over once you've gotten into the habit of doing it! Stiff arming the reins while trying to give leg cues ends up closing the door before it even gets open -- took riding a couple of different horses to realize what I was doing.

I love your gate example too. It definitely helps to break things down into manageable chunks with a breather between. The more it becomes a fight, the less successful it'll be, but the "little successes" that comes from breaking something down into parts A - Z and solving each one at a time will make putting the whole thing together as one smooth motion a lot easier.

zebradreams07 said...

Can you give some more detail on how you teach a horse to go straight? My gelding does ok on the rail, but when we come off it (only for diagonals and centerlines in dressage) he loses his reference point and starts wiggling. Even with constant leg and rein bumping I can only keep him in a semi-straight line; I don't know how to help him understand the concept without a visual aid.

Judi said...

Kel wrote: "Judi: Do dogs move away from pressure? Usually in horse language, the horse that makes another move its feet is the more dominant. In my limited observation of dogs, it seems like they have a great stare-down until somebody gives, but there's no specific, purposeful driving another out of one's space."
Kel, that stare-down is pressure, and the one who gives is yielding space. How dogs react to pressure can be very situational and breed/temperament-dependent, but they are a social species and react to pressure, be it social or physical. I had to teach my working-bred dog to move when I moved into her because her instinct is to be the mover not the movee. My other dog is much softer and practically moves at a glance. Then the problem becomes getting them to hold position when you need/want them to, like for the vet or grooming or show exams....

Tonight we found that I was gaiting the dog while staring at her, and that led to the forging and bad form. When we had me release the pressure by opening my body (also improved my posture and movement, I'm sure) and not looking directly at the dog, she gaited at a nice pace on a loose lead and her movement radically improved. I think this may help me release pressure when I work her on livestock, too. Like many novice handlers, I get paranoid for the safety of the stock and don't release pressure on the dog when she's appropriate. Now I have a better feel for her reaction to reduced pressure and can apply it under different circumstances.

mugwump said...

zebradreams - I'll meet you at the mindmeld!

mugwump said...

Judi - this is fascinating. We have recently adopted a little dog who turned out to be a mill dog survivor. Sh's 8 years old and doesn't read our body language at all. I take that back, she's starting to learn to, from hanging with our other dogs.

Yes folks, I'm gonna admit it, we're getting the dog therapy.

RHF said...

I think the hardest part about getting this lightness with horses is letting them make mistakes. I'm really working on waiting for my horse to make a mistake before I fix it...especially with my reins- I have busy, busy hands! But I've found the more I just ride the exercise I'm working on and don't worry about what mistakes he might make, the less mistakes he makes. My big heavy boy is getting softer and lighter every ride. SO COOL! I've also been working on breaking things into much smaller pieces, and making sure they are 100% solid before I add on the next step. This allows me to be really light in my cues because he already understands what I'm asking.

Becky said...

Mugwump: When people refer to "therapy dogs", I don't think that's quite what they had in mind.

Golden the Pony Girl said...

Great post as always!

Had to call you on one thing though..
"My problem with clicker as a reward for correct behavior is it stops all action (see #2) and takes the horse's mind off the job at hand."
first is true. To click and reward does mean there is a pause. If that is what you mean? The second thought is incorrect. Horses (all animals) actually remember tasks as well if not better when trained with positive reinforcement. All horses I have watched being clicker trained are very keyed into the task. Don't take my word for it though here is some research done showing that task retention is higher when you use negatives and positives1 Here is a link :)
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0003347209006034

Though I do not about hugging

http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0015446

Whether you train with negative or positive reinforcement timing is crucial for a horse to keep it's mind on the task at hand. I am not here to argue about which reinforcer is better. I think in the right hands they both have their place in horse training.

Always good to keep an open mind though!

Golden the Pony Girl said...

*Though I do not know about hugging
whoops sorry! sheesh.

mugwump said...

Golden - Nope, going to argue.

When I said, "takes their mind off task at hand," I'm not questioning whether or not the horse remembers what he's being praised for. Stopping the action takes his mind off the cow, the fence run, the run down the spin, hesitation means the loss of the cow, points or the whole game.
The horse needs to take the release as a communication that we're on the right track, not a Good Boy!
I don't dismiss ideas I haven't tried or researched.
I do resent insinuations that because I don't agree with a method it means I'm ignorant or close-minded.
It would never cross my mind to suggest that to someone who chooses methods other than mine.

Golden the Pony Girl said...

Mugs I didn't mean to call you close minded. You are far from it! It is completely evident in your thoughtful posts. I am so sorry for that please don't take offense. I was just meaning in general Positive reinforcment is not popular or well known with horse people... I thought that reading some of the papers may open a few minds on different training approaches.

I can see your point with working cows. I do not know anything about working cattle. In competition though you would not be clicking, petting, or giving a horse a long release for that matter. You would be working of the cues you trained (using either positive or negative).
I had hoped that you and your readers would find the papers interesting and promote more conversation... I am sorry :(

mugwump said...

Golden, Now that I'm open to. No offence taken.

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